See the world through my eyes! Experience it through these blog posts.

A Night Out On the Town

After another very good / intensive week at school, during which I learned so much and steadily progressed on my concept for one of my trimester paintings, it was time for a change of scene.  So on Saturday, I had a night out on the town.  Actually, it was more than a night – I left home at 1pm and didn’t come back until 1am, walking most of that time. Oh, but was it ever worth it.  1_DLH_2992In the afternoon, I joined 25 local photographers to participate in Scott Kelby’s Worldwide Photo Walk, an annual event, and at night, I joined thousands upon thousands of both locals and tourists for the Lange Nacht Der Museen (Long Night of Museums) – 130 museums open from 6pm until 1am with 1 low-priced ticket (13 Euros = ~$18 Cdn). Of course, I didn’t get to 130, but I did manage to do 10 of the 11 on my carefully researched list.  This was a very well organized event, with a comprehensive booklet (also available in English), free public transportation, including 5 special shuttle routes, and a huge crew of staff and volunteers.  I was impressed! The one museum I didn’t manage to do only had 800 tickets available, all of which had been snatched up before I could get there at 7:30pm – oh well, I might just pay their usual 12.60Euro entrance fee and go another day.

Here’s a summary of my day in both words & photos.

Donau Kanal Worldwide Photo Walk:

When I got the email from my old camera club in Newfoundland about this year’s Photo Walk, I decided to Google Scott Kelby’s website to see if there were any groups participating here in Vienna. There were 2, one downtown where I spend most of my days, and one along the Danube Canal, which I hadn’t visited yet.  So I joined online and got to the meeting point an hour early (no surprise there) to sit on a bench, and people/dog watch while the weather turned from an early Fall afternoon to a cold and windy wintery type day.  Fascinating! When group members arrived, I tried my best to stick to German, but it’s so easy to switch to English when folks use it to talk to me. For the next 2 hours, we slowly walked along the canal, where I mostly focused on the graffiti – fun!  I had purposefully not brought my tripod so that I wouldn’t have to use the cloak rooms at the various museums (which would have slowed me down considerably), so I had to shoot at over 1200 iso it was so dark. That’s one reason I decided to have fun with zooms and pans. (Note: click on any photo to see it larger.)

*I have to choose 1 photo from this walk to upload to the group – I’ve got it narrowed down to 3.  What’s your favourite photo?

Long Night of the Museums:

We ended our walk at the Design Tower by architect Jean Nouvel, where our group leader had arranged for us to go up 18 floors to The Loft for a complimentary drink and the start of a guided tour. At 7pm, as the group was getting ready to go have dinner, I was more than ready to take off as the Long Night of the Museums was already one hour underway.  The Design Tower was a participating venue, and I was glad to have seen it, especially the breathtaking views on the city, but I had so many other places on my wish list.

Stop 2:  Kunst Haus Wien – Museum Hundertwasser:
If you’ll remember, I really resonate with Hundertwasser’s buildings that I shared with you on my first week here – both this museum and the public housing complex a few blocks away.  I had never been inside, though, or seen any of his paintings.  I loved the colours and harmonious use of spirals and squares – although very different from Klimt, these elements are present in both their work (and mine)…. The energy here was very good for me and the place wasn’t too crowded as this museum, about 10 minutes walk from the Design Tower, wasn’t centrally located.  I took a couple of pictures before learning that photos weren’t allowed.   While there, I also walked quickly through a photo exhibit by Linda McCartney, but it didn’t capture my attention.
DLH_3280DLH_3276 Stop 3 & 4: Upper and Lower Belvedere:
From Kunst Haus, I hopped on the free Line 1 shuttle that brought us back to the central Meeting Point in front of the Hofburg Palace, where I jumped onto the Line 2 bus which took me to the Belvedere (remember those lovely garden photos with a large square body of water in front?).  In the Upper Belvedere, I saw Klimt’s “The Kiss” and other of his works, some of which I totally didn’t resonate with and others that I loved.  I also found a large digital photo screen of a black panther and a marble sculpture with a different interpretation of Amor & Psyche than the one I fell in love with as a child in Paris at the Louvre … all three of these will help me refine elements of my trimester painting.  Great!  I was glad to also go through the Lower Belvedere as some of the soul paintings from 1900 touched on themes of mysticism and myth in a way that I enjoyed.  Of course there were lots of other rooms full of paintings / old portraits that never spoke to me – I remember being bored by them as a child and although I do have much more of an appreciation for them on an intellectual level thanks to all I’ve learned at school in the past 3 weeks, I still don’t enjoy them.

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Hofburg Palace

An amazingly talented bottle player...

An amazingly talented bottle player…

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Lower Belvedere

Stop 5:  Secession:
I rarely spend much time in museums, but I was in and out of this one so quickly, it’s quite funny.  I had a purpose – to see Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze in the basement.  I glanced in 2 other rooms on the way, but it was modern stuff that totally didn’t speak to me, and so I decided not to waste my precious time that the bus rides had already cut into.  The frieze was worth it and I do like the outside look of this building – don’t you?!
DLH_3284 DLH_3285Stop 6: The Vienna Butterfly House at the Burggarten Palmhouse:
I had been wanting to visit this since my first days in Vienna – I have such wonderful memories of photographing butterflies in various greenhouses in Canada.  I’m glad I didn’t pay the usual entrance fee for this one.  There were hardly any butterflies, none of which were flying around at this time of night.  Part of the reason I didn’t get much out of this experience, however, was probably that I waited about 20 minutes in line and the crowd inched its way through the space as one slow line – no way for me to get out any faster.  Still, it was nice to be among greenery, but nothing very spectacular in that realm either.

Stop 7: The Albertina:
This palace is one of the most famous art museums in Vienna.  The line wasn’t too long, and I quickly made my way up to the “Matisse and The Fauves” exhibit. I liked the purple walls and some of the art, but I didn’t spend too long in front of anything.  Still, I was thrilled to have an idea of the space and grateful for the splashes of colour.  This step away from what other painters of the time were doing was not well received by critics of the day, but now look at where they’re hanging.  It’s really truly important to create according to our own inner callings – not what the world wants or expects from us. Still, I’m sure they had to pay the rent and eat too…

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Stop 8: Austrian Film MuseumI had been curious about this museum as it’s quite close to my school and I am a big movie fan.  The museum basically consists of the screening room and lobby. I only had to wait 10 minutes for the next screening – this one a 20-minute compilation of “tension” (the volunteer said there wasn’t really a word for it in English) in 4 films throughout history.  Sitting down in the dark, especially during the third and the longest/ most tedious art film clip I’d seen in a long time, my body recognized that we were already past my usual bedtime.  Still, I got to experience the space, and for that, I am grateful.

Stop 9:  Natural History Museum:
It was now 11pm and I only had 2 more museums on my list, so I slowed down a bit to walk the full circle of exhibits on both floors.  This building is a mirror copy of the Art History Museum across the courtyard/gardens, where my class goes on Thursdays to draw.  It was neat to notice the similarities and differences in the interior decorations – great ceilings and wall friezes in both!  This one, however, is filled with minerals and animals of all kinds – 30 million specimens … and lots and lots of people.  I can see how it would captivate museum lovers for hours on end… but unless I need to come back to practice drawing something, once was enough for me.  Lifeless specimens behind glass don’t really do it for me.  Or perhaps this is like libraries and videos stores – simply too much visual stimulus that leads me to feeling overwhelmed, choosing to leave for quieter surroundings instead.  Have you figured out yet that I’ve never been much of a museum person? That’s one reason this one-ticket deal was great for me so I could get a quick taste of it without the expense.  There is no right or wrong, good or bad – there just is, and that is me.

Stop 10 – Last Stop – The Leopold:
It was now a bit past midnight and I headed across the street to the Museum Quartier where I’d selected one of the many museums there to visit – The Leopold.  The second floor was a very loud smoky bar with live music and dancing that resonated throughout the whole museum – interesting.  I mainly focused on the Leopold collection with the largest Egon Schiele collection and Art Nouveau showcase with works by Klimt and other Secessionists.  The Leopold is a very modern space compared to some of the older museums, and the work fits in very nicely here.  I once again resonated with some of Klimt’s work and was reminded by both his and Shiele’s pieces that once I’ve figured out how to draw the human figure (a continuing challenge despite our anatomy of the muscles class this week and life drawing experiences – but there is progress….), I’ll be able to find my own style of drawing them to integrate the figure in my work the way I’d like to – a way that is yet to be determined.  I loved how Shiele left off the feet in this one painting – I’ve been doing that too – hands and feet are especially difficult to draw…  That might not have been why he left them out though…  I left this museum a little before 1am as folks were begging the security guards to let them in past the 12:30am last entry (without success).  Half an hour’s walk later, I was home with my feet stretched up along the wall above my bed to help reestablish a more normal blood circulation.  What a great day!  I’m glad I decided to do it alone instead of with the couchsurfing group or classmates as I could follow my own agenda at my own speed – a very different one, I’m sure, than most people out and about last night.

Well, it’s now 5:00pm on Sunday (it takes a loooonnnnng time to edit photos – I started with 498 – and write blogs) and I haven’t started my homework.  But first, time to cook some of this week’s meals.  Hope you had a great weekend.

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A Saturday Morning in Vienna

On Saturday morning, I headed downtown to the plaza in front of City Hall (Rathaus Platz) for Masters 2013 – an international horse show. Entrance was free from 8am – 2pm, and so I took advantage of that to have fun with my camera for a couple of hours during the Bronze Tour showjumping. It was interesting watching all the riders with their coaches in the ring pacing the jumps on foot before the start of the competition.  I particularly enjoyed watching a little dog doing the rounds – sometimes with his masters and sometimes on his own.

I really felt for those riders who came from afar and were eliminated within the first few seconds because their horse refused a jump a couple of times or knocked down too many gates.  What surprised me the most is that the fastest horse there (while I was there anyway) who also cleared all the jumps without a penalty actually looked like a small painted pony – the whole crowd commented on how cute and small it was when it came out.  What pep!

I then headed towards the Art History Museum to practice drawing for 1.5 hours, but first I walked through the Sports Day festival in Heldenplatz.  A good morning.

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The Prater Park

A lot of people seemed to be looking at my walking sandals today – I’d considered my hiking boots to go exploring the Prater, but with a high of 21C (13 when I left), I was glad I wore my open-toed footwear.  Fall/winter will be here soon enough and my poor toes will then again have to be closed in.  I love these shoes!  Sure, they’re a bit inconvenient when a pebble gets caught in there, but a bit of yoga balance and a practiced finger does the trick.  This time, however, my brain registered it as strange that my hand was wet after handling my shoe and yet the pathways were dry … yuk! I’d stepped in doggy doo-doo! Try finding a place to wash your hands in these parks! I did find a toilet (free, surprisingly!), but there were no sinks.  Later on, though, I found a water pump that did the trick after using grass and a pond in between.  But I’m getting ahead of myself…

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I had put it up in the school’s Facebook group that I’d be leaving the Prater fairgrounds entrance gate at 11am if anyone wanted to go on a hike, but as I had anticipated, I was on my own. That gave me a chance to do another 3 hours of learning German with my iPhone as I wandered around, sometimes in circles, in the Prater park, a huge space with the Hauptalle (Main Alley) in the centre (with lanes for bicycles/in-line skaters, pedestrians, horses, and dirt paths for dog walkers/joggers) and paths going off in all directions through all sorts of terrains and attractions.  I mostly stuck to the bigger pathways on the lower side of the map, simply because I didn’t know how safe it would be to wander into the woods on my own, but I still got a good taste of nature.  I brought my real camera this time, but alas, dear fans who complained that I didn’t have a photo of the squirrels at Shönbrunn, there were none here.

http://www.wien.gv.at/umwelt/parks/anlagen/images/pratertafel.jpg

After 3 hours, when I spotted a sign for the underground, I decided that I’d had enough.  Once I found my way there, I learned that the Eurolines buses to Brno, Czech Republic are only 7.60 EUR instead of the 30 train ticket.  They leave every day at 17:30 from the Prater… a bit of a problem with my 18:00 end of classes.  I’ll keep exploring options.  I got off the U3 at a station that was new to me, but whose name I recognized as being a street that connects to mine. It turns out that it starts on Mariahilfestrasse (the big shopping street), which gave me the chance to get a pistachio gelato cone for my walk home.  When I arrived at 3pm, one of my roommates was still sleeping – they came in at 5am.  They start 2 weeks of German classes tomorrow, so we’ll be on a more similar schedule then.

 

 

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An Amazing Classroom

When I looked online for the forecast this morning, I saw that the heavier rain was expected at 12pm and so I decided to postpone my 4-5 hour hike through the Prater and went back instead to the Shönbrunn Palace Gardens to explore the left side for 2.5 hours while doing my German lessons on my iPhone.  It only took me 10 minutes to get there by underground (2 lines) – wow!  What an inspiring classroom, and again, away from the main gardens, there were very few people.  For a very long time, I followed the star shaped super-tall hedges while repeating my German phrases.  When I turned a corner to see an elderly man masturbating in the distance (sorry, no photo), however, I decided to switch gardens. Luckily, there are lots to choose from.  Following the paths up the hill towards the Gloriette, I found myself walking in the woods. I could imagine the royalty exploring their hunting grounds on horseback in times past.  Today, however, the paths seem only to harbour beautiful rusty dark squirrels that run right up to you to beg, 2-coloured crows, statues, sandboxes, benches, and occasional openings with a great view.  Oh, and I found an outdoor swimming pool and wellness center that greatly appealed to me – there wasn’t a soul on this very cool day under a threatening sky, but I considered coming back on Sunday for their last day of the season (the water is at 23 degrees these days).  Something about the experience appeals to me.

After 2.5 hours of learning German in this beautiful landscape, I headed back to the underground just as the rain was getting heavier.  I got out on Mariahilferstrasse to activate my iPhone (9.90EUR for a SIMM card) and 10 EUR/month.  Good deal, I believe.  I then had a chicken PHO soup at a noodle shop and hopped on the first of a few different trams and buses to continue exploring the city.  Indeed the heavy rain was starting at 12pm!  I think I’ve discovered that buses with numbers in the hundreds actually leave the 21 districts of Vienna as I ended up into what seemed like a village within a most luscious green forest.  Since my Weekly Pass is only for Vienna, I got scared of the 100 Euro fine and hopped off. I waited about half an hour for the bus heading back the other way, quite the difference with the inner city 4-minute waits.  Luckily, by then, the heavy rain and hail had stopped and I got home dry with a few new places in my discovery-bag.

I’ll be going to bed early tonight because tomorrow is the big opening of the school – I’ll be helping out at about 3pm and the party goes until 1am… not sure if I will.  I’m excited and nervous – there are 150 saying they’re going so far on Facebook in a space that I’d say can accommodate 40…  hmmmm…

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A Downtown Oasis

My Spirit Calling Card message yesterday morning was a beauty, especially considering I was about to meet a few more of my teachers and classmates as we worked together for 5 hours to set up the studio for this Saturday’s opening celebrations/exhibition.  Appreciating the emerging colours of our group dynamics as well as putting up all the gorgeous/powerful artwork and seeing the space take shape were indeed a big part of my day.

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On my way to school in the morning, I walked on the left side of Burgasse instead of the right, which led to the Volksgarten instead of to the imperial palace.  Although 1/4 of the park was undergoing restoration, there was still enough greenery here to be satisfying for a downtown park. It will be a little oasis on my way to school.  I ended up spending an hour sitting on the marble bench near the statue of Empress Elisabeth of Austria-Hungary (Sissi) listening to the three water fountains as the peaceful background to my German lessons on my iPhone.  It was the perfect spot until a few guided tours of about 40 people joined me, but only for a few minutes each.

I’m practicing my German a little every day, but both with the Polish maintenance folks at the Palace and a Slovak woman giving me directions on the street, it was easier to try and communicate in Czech.  Unfortunately, my Czech is all being jumbled up with my German and vice versa right now… oh well.

After leaving the school, one of my classmates from the United States, Donnalynne and I headed to the Danube Island to put our feet in the water and chat before heading back to town to find a place to eat near Stephanplatz –  we decided on a Greek Restaurant with live music – it was great except for the smoke, of course (have I mentioned that before?).  On our way back to the Underground, my eye caught this unusual window display of shirts.  We also came across a very lively parade of what seemed like Cubans because of the music… but not sure.

IMG_2633Donnalynne also got a place through the same international student housing agency, but because she started her process late in the game, ended up at the outskirts of town amongst car and tombstone dealerships.  I’m so glad I started early.  I just got an email yesterday that they can extend this room for January and then offer me another place at about the same distance from school on Tigergasse until June. I need to decide by September 30th.  I took advantage of an incredible Air Canada sale on right now and got an $813 ticket from Ottawa – Vienna- Ottawa after Christmas returning to Canada at the end of June … all this without knowing if I’ll be let back in the country.  I’m trying not to let all that stress me, but it does.  The school is still waiting for its accreditation and without that, I won’t be able to get a residence permit.  I emailed the embassy in Ottawa to see if we’re allowed 2 Class D visas in a row… and whether that could happen when I’m only in town for a week at Christmas time.  They only have 1 day of appointments open on December 24th.  This time I won’t be there for 3 weeks…  Once again, I’ll have to keep on trusting and manifesting and taking the financial risks. But I’m being guided to start on all that…

OK – enough for today – the sun is out and it’s supposed to rain all afternoon, so off to somewhere I go.

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In Search of Nature (with my iPhone)

What a great day yesterday! I can now say that I’ve traveled the underground trains, the fast trains, the trams and the buses.  I’m glad to report that I have successfully used and followed the instructions on the public transport’s Internet trip planner, even if it’s in German. My quest – nature!  Yesterday marked 1 month since I left Newfoundland and Labrador, and although Ottawa has its own unique charm and plenty of green spaces, it didn’t feed my soul as much as the wilderness and energy of The Rock.  I know peace is an internal state, but there’s something very grounding, connecting, peaceful, uplifting, serene about being in certain natural spaces and that’s what I was looking for.

University Botanical Garden
This morning I went back to the Belvedere area to explore the Botanical Garden that is attached to it.  I had cut through it for 2 minutes on my way to a get-together on Saturday.  It was nice, but just like the Stadtpark, I don’t think I’ll feel the need to return to it.  If you’re into studying zillions of species of plants, it’s great.  It simply didn’t satisfy me energetically (I know, I’m hard to please at times).

Since I was there, however, I returned to the Belvedere Palace and its gardens.  I do enjoy this space very much!

Schönbrunn Palace Botanical GardensAfter lunch at my place, I headed back out and made my way to Empress Sisi’s former summer residence, where I did a brief photo shoot last week for Kaliyana’s travelogue. This time, I walked around the grounds for more than 2 hours and only covered part of half (the free parts).  There’s also a zoo, labyrinth, palm house, and more.   I’ll definitely be back!  This will definitely be a go-to place for me.  As I walked into one of the side gates into the grounds, I instantly felt that connection to Mother Earth, that sense of relief, that being one and at peace – I felt home (OK, so I’ve been called a princess before, but I’m not talking about the palace or palatial gardens  – although these were great too!).  There are a lot of old growth trees here and countless tree-lined walkways, some of which feel like a hug.  Each part of the garden is big enough to create a mood as you walk around or sit in the multitude of secluded corners, and unique enough that when you exit, you immediately enter into a whole new world – not better or worse, just different.  I’ve tried to give you an idea through photos (I let go of weight and perfectionism today and chose to only bring my iPhone as my main goal was to walk).  I can only imagine this place in the spring.  Not sure what winter will be like with all the leaves gone, but I’ll try that too.  One thing that was really nice is that the park is big enough not to hear the cars outside (instead, I enjoyed the sounds of nature, even the surprising call of a monkey before I remembered there was a zoo here).  In addition, although there were lots of tourists around, they were dispersed enough, especially once outside the main garden alley with the palace at one end and the Gloriette at the other.  Notice the photo of the guard with lions  – its face is actually a tree trunk… interesting.  To congratulate myself for walking up there and to give me energy to continue my explorations before finding my way home, I treated myself to a famous Sacher torte … I can now say I’ve had some, but I don’t think I’ll order it again unless I become curious to know if there are different qualities – this one almost tasted stale, but I’m sure it wasn’t with the traffic that café has.  It’s a heavy and dry chocolate cake with apricot jam. Next on my must-try list is the equally famous apple strudel with warm vanilla sauce and whipped cream.

Oh, I’d like to thank the considerate patron who put toilet paper in between the door jam to stop it from locking – I’m not fond of the idea of paying the equivalent to 75 cents to use a public toilet. I’m not much for breaking the rules, but this is one I’ll have a hard time adjusting to.  For a few dollars more, you can use a toilet for free and eat a large pizza too.  They just didn’t have a pizza restaurant in the middle of the palatial gardens, and I couldn’t hold it in any longer (is that too much information? 🙂  )

I found my way back home on the bus and underground (along with the newly married couple I saw up at the Gloriette – they looked just as exhausted) and successfully cooked another meal.  We were 3 today doing the kitchen dance – Ellen from Belgium has just joined us.

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My Walk To School by iPhone

We had our first meeting at the school yesterday and so I timed my walk at 40 minutes from door to door, with a few quick iPhone snaps (OK, more than a few!).  This will give you a good idea of where I live. The 2 first shots are my apartment and the junky-looking green palace at the end houses my school.  The red & pink paint blotches, I’m told, were done as a protest to the State for not renovating the Palais Palffy facade – the only one in this state in the whole sector.  It doesn’t seem to have worked…

After our meeting, I went off on my own to 11 locations in a few different districts to deliver posters and flyers for the school and its opening party. That was definitely a good way to get to know the public transportation system and to to see some of the like-minded businesses (yoga studios, art supply stores, shamanic store, new age bookshops, and the coolest clothing shot/gallery/vegan raw restaurant called Dancing Shiva).  I got quite a few hours of walking in there too.

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Happiness is a Choice

Today, I had to continuously remind myself that happiness is a choice and that anger wouldn’t serve anyone, myself included.  It was just one of those days.  I’m glad to say, however, that I didn’t actually get angry (although it did bubble up a few times) and chose peace and happiness at every turn (OK, almost…).  Parts of my day were actually awesome, so in my heart I’m only focusing on those, but in this blog I’ll share the full story because it makes for better storytelling 🙂

I woke up at my normal 5am after almost 8 hours of sleep and my body begged for a restorative yoga session, which I was glad to oblige.  By 7:50am, I had done my yoga, had half my breakfast, showered, dressed, and was out the door for a very short drizzly walk to the corner where I waited until they opened the doors to Denn’s organic supermarket.  I needed fresh fruit for my breakfasts, but I also needed to stock cupboards.  After a week playing tourist and eating out, it was time to learn to cook without my steamer.  It took me about 45 minutes to go through the store to select various fruits & vegetables, goat milk cheeses, hummus spreads, pesto, quinoa, brown rice, lentils, seeds, and a whole variety of gluten free breads, pasta, and tamari.  I’ve kept my receipt so I can learn the German names – it came out to 95.84, which was perfect as I had only brought 100.  I’m thrilled with the variety of healthy organic foods available here. Yay!  I put everything away while eating my raspberries and then headed out for my day of exploring the public transportation system.

That had been my goal from the start, so in a way I should be grateful for what happened next.  Do you remember the 3-hour walk I took to the Magistrat last week only to find out that they were closed on Wednesdays?  Well, after successfully buying my 1-week pass from a machine with a 20 Euro bill and getting change (yay again!), I asked a few people which tram to take to the Rathaus (City Hall). Being a major landmark, I figured most people would know, but the group I asked couldn’t agree. I kept walking a little and another man suggested I take the #6 tram for 1 stop to the Westbanhoff (train station) where there was an information kiosk with staff that speak English.  I’m glad I already had my pass as the information office was 3 levels underground beside one of the subway lines (for which you need a ticket to get to).  They had sold out of maps for the bus / tram lines (I wanted to do it above ground to see the city), but it was very simple and quick underground. I easily found the Magistrat’s office. If you’ll recall, it was the clerk at the government agency I went to last week to register my residency address who told me that this is where I needed to go to ask questions about extending my visa.  Before going to office #44 (which is where the helpful man at the front counter told me I should go), he escorted me to the elevator to show me how to get to the washroom (as per my request – this is not a Viennese courtesy offered without asking).  That’s where I got my first omen (forgive the graphic details if you’re sensitive to such things – again, it makes for better storytelling).  As I was crouched over the toilet, I heard the distinct sound of metal hitting ceramics and cringed.  As I looked down into the bowl that I had just urinated into, I saw my precious Our Lady of the Miraculous medal that my father had given me last Christmas.  What to do?!  I just couldn’t bear the symbolism of flushing it down the sewers, and so I had no alternative but to pull my sleeve up and fish it out.  I’m relieved to say, however, that this was a single washroom equipped for the handicapped and so there was actually a sink right beside the toilet, which I immediately used.  Both Mary and my hands got a good wash before I proceeded to the royal bureaucratic run-around that was to follow.

I went to #44 and figured out that I had to enter the office and ask the assistant for a ticket to see a clerk (many places have a ticket dispensing machine outside). I then sat down at her desk and explained to her that I had a question about extending my visa.  She did just as the clerk at Hermangasse had done last Wednesday. She told me I was at the wrong office and handed me a paper with an address and map. Having limited German (and she had very limited English), I simply forwent the complaining, smiled, breathed, and said “Danke, Auf Wiedersehen” (Thank you, goodbye).  Before venturing through the underground system to get there, however, I decided to walk the 4 blocks back to the Bank of Austria where I had put money on my Quick Card (for laundry) last Friday. Last week’s simple request had taken quite a bit of time while the clerk seemed to have trouble with the machine and was called away to help her colleague).  That had given me the time to really observe my surroundings, something I naturally do as a visual person.  I had observed how my 2 blue 20 Euro bills looked angled and superimposed on the counter versus the single red 10 Euro bill on the counter behind (which had me curious – I don’t usually see money lying around on back counters at banks).  I also took the time to count in my head how many loads of laundry 40 Euros would cover, hoping it would bring me to Christmas so I wouldn’t have to return here. When she explained that there would be a 1 Euro commission, I wrote on my expenses sheet in my wallet 39+1, thinking she would deduct it, but was surprised when she asked for an extra Euro.  No problem. When I got home and ventured to do the laundry, the card reader said I had 20 Euros on the card.  When I got upstairs and checked my bank receipt (not checking it there was my mistake), it said 20 Euros.  So I went back to the bank this morning to explain and to ask if their cash balanced out on Friday and if they were by chance 20 Euros over.  My banker wasn’t there today.  Today’s banker asked her colleague and checked through some papers, but informed me that the cash balance was clear at the end of Friday.  I asked if there was any way to check the TV cameras above as the time was stamped on my receipt.  She took my email address and said she’d do some checking through the Quick Card system, but it’s the end of the business day now and I haven’t heard back.  I’m 100% sure I gave 40 – the idea of the bank shortchanging me did get the anger bubbles rising a few times, but I kept reminding myself that these are all lessons learned and that I should have checked my receipt.  It’s hard to think of such basic things when so much is going on in a new country – all the visual, auditory, sensory stimulus can put a person like me in a state of overwhelm.  I had been so happy to find this bank after trying about 6 others last week, that I thought it was a done deal and that they knew what they were doing because they do it all day every day.  Who knows, however…. she could have had a really bad day and she’s also human. Mistakes happen.  I’m still hoping.  $27 of laundry makes a difference.

From the bank, I ventured back underground and found my way via 2 lines to St. Stephen’s Cathedral station and then up through the streets to the office where I was told to go.  The fact that there were 2 doors with the same address on the same block was a bit confusing, but I managed to find my way. There were many foreigners there of various countries and various odorous states.  When it was my turn, I explained what I wanted and the receptionist went to get someone for me in a back office. Great! no line up!  Unfortunately, this woman explained to me that this was a counseling office to help immigrants, but not the one that specializes in students.  Also, they have no official power – they are an NGO that simply help with advice.  So she gave me 3 other addresses I could go to.  Supposedly, the office that actually gives the permits will no longer answer questions – you simply go there to apply. Again, I thanked her and said goodbye.
As I stood outside in the beautiful square with a statue in the middle, I was at a loss as to what to do next.  Do I try these other addresses?  No, I’d had enough of that for one day.  Instead, I turned 360 degrees to feel where I should go next and my eye caught that Godsend of a sign – Pizza!  I’m glad to report that I haven’t had potato chips in a few weekw (pretty good for a chipaholic) – but I’ve had pizza almost every day, at my hosts or on the street.  So much for all that gluten-free shopping I did this morning…  This one was cheap – 5 EUR and made fresh in front of me in a little hole it the wall with 3 tables and bar stools. Oh was it good!… that is until the 2 gals beside me finished theirs and lit up.  So it’s not only on terraces! Again, I chose to be happy and enjoy this treat while looking at my map and deciding my next step.  I needed greenspace.

The nearest park of any size was the Stadpark, which was on my wish list of places to experience.  It took me about 20 minutes to walk there and about 45 minutes to walk through.  There are sidewalks lined with benches through the whole park and statues of musicians everywhere, including the famous one of Johan Strauss.  It’s a nice park, but it didn’t really help me ground or connect to nature. I’m glad I went, but I don’t think I’ll go out of my way to return again.  I will go back to the Botanical Gardens though.
Once I had finished my walk, I hopped on the first tram I found and just sat and watched the city go by until the end of that line and then hopped on another and went to the end of that one.  When I recognized that I was close to home, I got off and found the stop for the #5 that passes on Kaiserstrasses at the corner from where I live, but a block down.  Right at the corner was a store full of rough stones and fossils – really impressive!  I got on the 5 to find out that the last stop was actually the train station where I took the underground this morning, so not far from my place. I stayed on as it turned around and went to the other end of the line (although I missed a few sights as I kept nodding off).  The final stop is the Prater, that park with the ferris wheel.  There’s quite a bit of nature around there too, but I was too tired to explore and stayed on it again as it turned around and took me home.  That’s when I found out that there was another shop diagonal to the first, this time full of polished stones and fossils – some to make jewelry (and they have a club/courses at the back) and others that I would love to stick on paintings.  What a thrill!

When I got home, I noticed my note on the table was at a different angle and heard a “hello!”.  I was greeted by Monica, my new roommate from Spain, who will be studying Economics here. She also studies law in her country.  Interestingly, her courses will also be in English, so we can communicate easily. It won’t help my German though, but that’s OK.  She’s out exploring right now and has friends in town in another residence, but she asked me a few questions about how things worked and it felt very strange being the expert around here.  It’s all relative!

So there you have it – plenty of opportunity for disgust, anger, frustration, disappointment, and more, but I chose otherwise and am quite happy about that. Today was a good day. Tomorrow, I have a meeting at school and we’ll be distributing posters around town, so I’ll get to know the city (and its art stores) some more.

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Happy Thanksgiving

Happy Thanksgiving! This is the Erntedankfest (Harvest Festival) weekend here in Vienna. I’ll be taking a stroll to the big festival downtown today, but yesterday, I came across a few festivities during my travels, including this concert on Mariahilfstrasse (the big shopping street) on my way to the Opera House for my last few hours with the Hop On Hop Off tour.

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 A Vienna Sightseeing guide had told me that the DDSG boating company should honour the combo ticket pricing even if I didn’t buy a ticket in advance (as I didn’t know about that possibility). I tried asking for confirmation, but this day’s guide was put on hold for too long and told me I could take the chance. When I got to the DDSG offices near a gorgeous church on the Danube a half hour into the tour, however, I found out that they wouldn’t. Oh well.  I decided not to buy the full price ticket for a half tour (1.5 hours) because for a few extra dollars, I could get the whole loop (3 hours) on a day when I had more time, so I sat on a bench watching boats go by until I came up with another plan.  By this time, my ticket for the tour bus had expired.

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DLH_2457It was already 1pm and I was meeting some teachers and a classmate at 5pm in a part of town I hadn’t been to before.  I had considered walking there about 2-3 hours away in order to see more of the city, but my body protested. I then saw that the underground train had a station on the Danube island (Donauinsel) in front of me with a stop on the same line near my final destination, which seemed much more my speed.  As I crossed the bridge to the island, I remarked to myself that the blue Danube was really more of a milky green, but I soon found out that the Danube itself on the other side of the island is blue, but that the New Danube I had just crossed is of a different colour.  There are actually 4 Danubes in the city – the canal, the overflow canal in case of floods, the New and the Old.

IMG_2360After getting an island map from the ice cream vendor (along with a strawberry & white chocolate Magnum), I sat down and figured out that the island is huge (21km).  I thought of walking around to see as much as I could in the 2 hours I had, but when I spotted the little floating plastic docks every so often alongside the Danube (about 10 square feet with a ladder to get in and out of the water), I decided instead to just sit there with my feet in the water, just like a true Viennese.  I wasn’t dressed for swimming, but when one of the two older men who had joined me on my dock stood up from where he was sunning himself and dove in (he wasn’t a small man by any means), I got a bit of a splash.  I didn’t mind.  I was finally relaxing and just being – enjoying nature, water, and watching the world go by.  Some swimmers would cross the Danube to the stairs/bathing platforms across the way, or simply swim in the middle for a while and come back. I also watched cyclists, in-line skaters, skateboarders, and strollers wander past.  I’ll definitely rent a bike here one day to explore the full 21km.  Today, I just got a taste of it.

I then figured out how to buy an underground ticket and make my way to the train.  These are clean, modern, efficient, and filled with all sorts of people.  Vienna is known as a very safe city – these are not at all like the subways in NYC that I’ve seen in movies or traveled on.  I may just get a monthly pass next month to visit different parks each weekend. We’ll see.  Tomorrow, I’ll get a weekly pass to start extensively exploring public transportation.  Once I arrived at my destination, it was tough trying to figure out which exit to take, so I just got above ground and was thrilled to see a sign to the Belvedere Palace I had been to the day before and which I knew was in the right direction.  I spent some time there in the lower gardens this time, and then cut across the University Botanical Gardens (which I’ll return to for sure) before finding my way to the apartment building where 4 of my teachers and 3 students will be living.  One thing that was different about the apartments here is that the toilet was in the hallway outside the apartment and is sometimes shared by several apartments.  These too didn’t have a sink.

I’m glad I’m getting this opportunity to meet the group a few people at a time – I’m better with small numbers than big crowds.  Laurence, Florence and their son were there and this time I met Kuba, Vera, and fellow classmate Martin.  The art I saw there was amazing.  I was especially taken by a painting Vera has been working on for a year, based on a vision from 3 years ago (if I remember well).  Wow!  Since I never know what I’m going to paint before I start and the whole process is intuitive and rather quick (usually a weekend of 12+ hour/day marathons to a couple of weeks if thick layers need to dry), I have a hard time imagining this for myself.  That’s definitely part of what I’ll be exploring here – the longer and more planned process based on drawing from visions – the visions I get, putting them on canvas has been another matter.  I’m very looking forward to seeing where it all leads. I noticed that my words and thoughts about what I’ll be producing here lacked in confidence.  I’d best redirect that – I’ve got some paraliminal CDs that can help. I’m glad I caught onto it early on.  Time for some openness, gentleness, and a sense of courageous adventure and acceptance of the results.

We had a lovely evening with homemade pizza and discussion on what needs to be done before the big public opening next weekend.  I’ll be volunteering a few days at the school this week and delivering posters around town (hard to imagine as I don’t know the city yet, but that’ll be a good way to do so).

OK – now off to see if I can figure out the laundry system.  I’m taking a break today – not so much running around.  I’ll go feed myself at the Erntedankefest later on (as shops are closed and I never did stock up on groceries for anything but breakfast) and that will be all the walking I’ll do today.

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12-Hour Tourist

I walked in exactly 12 hours after I left home this morning – a few hours after I shoulda woulda coulda…  It was a terrific day, and we’ll see if I can wake up early tomorrow to take advantage of my last half day on the Hop On Hop Off bus.  What did I do? Let me tell ya…

  • 9am – left home and was thrilled to find a dollar store on that big shopping street (actually, a Euro store, so that’s a $1.44 store Cdn) to buy batteries for my camera flash.  Got confused about whether I wanted alkaline or non alkaline and so I ended up buying AAAs instead of AAs
  • arrived at the Opera House at 9:45 and got on the first Yellow Line bus to Shonbrunn Palace – arrived at 10:15.  I was wearing my Kaliyana anti-suit and so I decided to make today a fashion-shoot-play-day project to submit shots for the designer’s weekly Travelogue.  Thank goodness I bought a remote for my camera instead of a cable shutter release.  I could dance and pose to my heart’s content and keep on shooting – other tourists smiled, but they’re used to camera shenanigans … just not solo. Again, this is the back of the house – they have really nice backyards around here 🙂
  • took the 11:30 am bus to the Belvedere, where I’m hoping our class will go see Klimt’s work, including The Kiss (I’m a hopeless romantic).  Today, however, I just went around the garden pool and took some pictures.  I’ve never been much of a museum person – I’ll save a lot of time and money in Vienna. 🙂  I like the gardens and park lands.
  • took the 12:30 bus back to the Opera House and switched to the Red Line.  I got off at the University stop to go to the Bank Austria branch I was told would accept cash to put on my QuickCard that I’ll be using for laundry – all other banks use the ATM and that wasn’t practical with my bank in Canada.  To my horror, it didn’t open on Friday afternoons.  To my delight, the central office across the street was open and it’s actually where I was supposed to go (not sure why there are 2 Bank of Austria across the street from each other, but I won’t complain).  On my way back to the bus, I was intrigued by a restaurant called Yamm.  Wow!  It’s the same style as my favourite vegetarian restaurant in Ottawa, The Green Door (but much fancier) – buffet style, but pay by weight.  Dangerous!  My lunch was $26, but oh how healthy and I must have tasted small spoonfuls of about 15 different dishes and salads – many were similar to what many international vegetarian restaurants in Canada might offer, but there was also a stuffed dumpling with sauerkraut that was truly European.  What a treat!  I’m glad it’s not in my neighbourhood though – not at that price (or with my healthy appetite) … and I didn’t even have a drink or desert.
  • Got on the 2pm bus to continue the loop.  I tried listening to the German, but only understood a few words and so I thought I’d learn more (especially about Vienna) if I stuck to English.  Lots to see out the windows – today I sat on the left side for a different perspective.  Did you know that traffic lights flash green before going to yellow and red here? As a pedestrian, our little guy flashes green to before going red too, but only for 1 second, so really, run!!!!
  • Back at the Opera House, I got on the 2:30pm Blue Line to go to Kunst Haus (where I had another photo shoot) and Hundertwasserhaus. The latter has been my favourite building in the world since I first went there in 1992.  I even made a 3D maquette of it in art history class when I did my Certificate of Art & Design at the University of Saskatchewan.  I’ve seen a lot of buildings all around the world – there’s just something about this one that draws me – and today’s visit confirms it – it’s the energy there.  I just found out that the artist who created it said “This house is my soul”.  Maybe I’m connecting to that.  It’s actually a public housing complex, full of greenery, curves and undulating floors, colours, and yes, tourists.  I sat on one of the cobble stone bumps in the sidewalk and just felt happy.
  • A few streets back, there was a store with long silk scarves that caught my eye – Huntertwasser and Klimt designs.  At 29.99 Euros ($43), I thought I might do better for my chosen Vienna souvenir, but the stores across from the house had the same ones for 59 Euros and downtown they were 69 ($99).  I’ll see if I still want one in a month or so.
  • I got on the 5pm bus and hopped off at the Prater Fairgrounds to see the Giant Ferris Wheel, one of Vienna’s landmarks. I imagined some fun anti-suit photo shoot there, but alas, I couldn’t make them happen on my own, not even with my trusted tripod (it’s people walking away with my gear while I use the remote from the swings that just didn’t make sense).  The original that burnt down dated back to 1897 (it was originally meant to be there only for a few months, but was too expensive to dismantle).  It was rebuilt in 1945.  You may have seen it in the world’s best English movie in a hundred years (voted in 1999), The Third Man with Orson Welles.  I’ll have to see it while I’m here.
  • Got on the 6:30pm bus to head back to the Opera House.
  • Got there at 7pm and the setting sun on St. Stephan’s Cathedral down the busiest pedestrian mall in Vienna called me.  It looked like it was just a block away, but it wasn’t… still it was a great walk with lots to see.
  • Once there, I decided to trust my usually great sense of direction to head home through the tiny cobble stone alleys with palaces and shops.  I had considered not paying into a cell phone plan while I was here since I’ve got Internet and a passive phone (I can receive calls, but will need to buy a phone card to call out) at home and those who are most likely to call me will be in class with me all day.  But I may just get one to access Google Maps.   My sense of direction doesn’t work in all the twists and turns here.  Once again, I ended up way off track… by miles! I was back at the University, close to the Rathaus (city hall).  I knew where to go from here, but it would be another hour’s walk at least, especially since there were more pictures along the way.
  • Each time I put my camera away saying to myself “I’m tired – go home”, I’d turn the corner or round the bend and see another spectacular sight, all lit up (this city is gorgeous at night too!).  So I’d set up my tripod again and have fun shooting with cars and tramways running through my long exposures.  I had thought about doing a night photo shoot of the anti-suit, but just didn’t have it in me anymore.
  • By 8:30pm, I knew I was close to home, but the bustling life in all the cafes and restaurants made me hungry (not the clouds of smoke I walked through at every terrace though).  Knowing I hadn’t really done groceries yet, I decided to stop for a snack/meal. I truly hadn’t thought I’d eat again after my big lunch at 1:30pm, but then again, it was now hours later and my body seems to be on a European schedule. I wonder when the next time will be that I’ll be in bed by 9pm and up at 5am…  At one point during my meal, I looked up to see the waiter lighting a cigarette behind the bar and a young lady walk through the restaurant to the bar with her big dog to place a take-out order….  I’m not in Canada anymore!  Being a very dog-friendly person, I certainly didn’t mind – it just surprised me.
  • Got home at 9pm.

Now it’s 1am – just had to go through my photos … goodnight!

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